Saturday, 16 June 2012

Accretionary wave conditions

We have now completed tests A1-A5. The wave forcing for these tests was supposed to have been accretionary (H = 0.8 and T = 8 s), but they turned out to be erosive and caused bar formation. To ensure that the next set of tests (A6-A8) will be accretionary it was decided to reduce the wave height to 0.6 m and lengthen the wave period to 12 s. Friday 15 June the beach was forced with 2.5 hours of these accretionary wave conditions, and the strong and long swashes resulted in more than 0.15 m deposition in the upper swash zone and hence the development of a berm. In the offshore region all was well too, and nice onshore migrating wave ripples were recorded with the Sand Ripple Profilers (Southampton). Some repairs were required to the surf zone rigs (Utrecht), but all is ready for the second half of series A6 on Monday 18 June.

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